It is (unfortunately) more than 12 years since I last visited Ukraine. At the time, I was visiting Ukraine with a close friend. We stayed in the city of Chernihiv, located in northern Ukraine about 60 kilometers east of Chernobyl. In Chernihiv, there are currently fighting between Russian and Ukrainian forces, but as far as I know the Ukrainians have control over the city.

Fortunately, we were so privileged at the time that we had the opportunity to visit a lot of local families who previously had children on holiday with us in Denmark. Among many good memories from the trip, the visit to the Kovalenko family in particular stands out in my memory. Mother Kovalenko was alone with 6 children in a small apartment, and she worked many hours every week to support the family. This was – sadly – not uncommon in a country where a double vodka was cheaper than a cup of coffee at the local cafe.

But even when you are a family without much in one of the poorest corners of Europe, you can still have hospitality – and hope.

It was a very enjoyable evening with lots of talk, laughter and games. We talked about life in each of our countries, and we also got Mother Kovalenko’s view of the time before and after the fall of the Soviet Union:

“Back then we had money to buy for, but there was nothing to buy. Today there are things to buy, but now we don’t have any money.”

However, there was no doubt that they loved Ukraine despite the country’s obvious challenges.

We stayed with the Kovalenkos until much later than planned, because it was one of those nights you don’t want to end. When we had finally said goodbye and had gone down to the waiting car, Vadym came running after us to give us one last farewell hug, a kiss and a few tears. I haven’t looked in my travel diary from back then, but I do remember that I wrote that afterwards we just had to sit in silence in the car and blink a lot while we looked out of each of our windows. This was actually how almost all the visits to the local families ended.

I think we both returned from a country that got stuck in our hearts for good. Ukraine is an amazing country with great potential and full of hospitable, warm-hearted people. We even managed to finally make the grumpy, middle-aged lady at the hotel reception smile when we (again) gave her flowers from the flower sellers on the streets.

The trip taught me one thing in particular that has influenced most of my later travels: Whereever you go get out and meet the locals where the locals live. You’ll get impressions in return that will last a lifetime.

There hasn’t been a week since then where I haven’t thought about our visit to Ukraine. The development this week is heartbreaking. I hope for and wish the best for all Ukrainians.